Hangin' with Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway has long been one of my favorite writers. While he was known for several haunts, including Key West, Charlevoix, and Spain, the Big Two Hearted River (east of Grand Marais, MI in the Upper Peninsula) was a frequent location in his Nick Adams stories.

I kayaked the Two Hearted a few years back and found it to be a beautiful, unspoiled river. In five hours of paddling, I never saw a single house. Nor a lawn (try that on the AuSable). So, when the opportunity to fish and camp along the river appeared, I jumped on it. With kayak, mountain bike, and fly rods I was ready.

The campground at the mouth was the perfect home base. I found a prime site - a 50 foot walk from the mouth and Lake Superior beyond (view at left). After setting up camp and checking things out, I struck out for the High Bridge access in the evening, thinking I'd fish that and work my way down the river to the Reed & Green Bridge access, then back to camp at dark.

Like many UP rivers, the Two Hearted is richly stained with tannins - like fishing in bourbon. Just makes it that much more beautiful.

At the High Bridge, I was happy to have my Yooper Stick -- a short (7' 6") 3-weight TFO rod. Tight quarters and this little rod was perfect for it. But, I was reminded of one challenge of UP rivers -- access. While you can usually get IN the river, heavy brush and trees can make getting OUT a problem. No luck at High Bridge, but a pretty wade.

Then it was on to Reed & Green. Wind was up and this part of the river is wider, so back to the trusty all-around Scott A-2 6-weight. I love this rod -- casts beautifully, super smooth delivery, and just seems to make me better. Two casts in and I've got a trout interested in the fly. On the fourth, he hits it. And, I've got my first fish of the trip. Nice little rainbow trout.

After I work my way around the bend, I find I'm out of the wind and a little hatch is starting and fish are feeding more. I'm really struck by the beauty of this place. The Two Hearted is truly a special river. As darkness is settling in, I hook a brook trout. Nice way to end the evening!

As an aside, many people don't know that Hemingway didn't fish the Two Hearted. He spent most of his UP time on the Fox river (at left) outside Seney. But the Two Hearted had a more powerful name (with "Big" added for more impact) and according to legend he wanted to protect his secret spot. My Dad and I have discussed fishing the Fox, but have decided it's probably unwadeable due to a lot of silt and deep holes. One day we'll drag the big old Grumman aluminum canoe up and give it a shot some day.

I'll definitely be back to the Two Hearted and if you like to be on the water to fish, canoe, or kayak, I highly recommend it!

-Sean-