Tack-Driver

My Browning Buckmark .22lr semi-auto has always been one of my favorite handguns to shoot. Feels good in-hand, very accurate, good sight picture. I just shoot this gun really well. But its not without drawbacks. First, it's a bit fussy on ammo. Anything less than mid-grade stuff and you get 2-3 stovepipe jams per box. It's very reliable with CCI MiniMag. Good luck finding any. And second, there's a lot of plastic in this gun. Yeah, I know, when properly engineered, plastic is fine stuff, blah, blah, blah. But somehow guns (like fly reels) should be metal. Finally the upper is really basically held together by two screws. These can work loose, affecting point of impact. Plus it makes it a bit of a pain to do a tear-down. Don't get me wrong - I love this gun and will likely never sell it.

But I'm looking to build the ultimate tack-driving target range .22 handgun. I want something that shoots nearly any ammo without a burp. That feels solid in-hand. And that enables me to put up dime-sized groups at under 30 feet. I've been poking around online for a while and found that the Ruger Mark III series has a reputation for having this potential. It's a solid, proven gun. Quality from the factory is basically very good. And there are a TON of aftermarket parts available to improve it.

A recent stop at Guns Galore, in Fenton, MI uncovered a Ruger Mark III Target model in stainless steel (hey, I have a shiny gun attraction...). And their prices were considerably lower than list. As soon as I held this fine firearm, I knew I'd found the basic platform for this project. Solid. Fits my hand like a glove. Great sight picture. I like the balance from the steel lower and bull barrel. Sold!

Of course, I'm aware of Ruger's reputation for difficult tear-down and re-assembly, but it seems like a small trade-off for the benefits. Plus, I watched the videos on Ruger's site and it doesn't look THAT bad. I'm eager to clean out the factory grease/protectant and get this one cleaned and lubed for a trip to the range!

I'll be writing more about this one after I get a chance to shoot it, and then as I start to make modifications. At the outset, I think it will be a candidate for a Volquartsen trigger/action kit, some Target style wood grips, and possibly Williams Fire Sights. But first I want to get to know it and see the strengths and weaknesses.

Looking forward to this journey!

-Sean-

Creaky

As a guy who grew up wrenching on bikes in shops, at races, and in my own garage, I hate extraneous noises. Creaks. Squeaks. Squeals. Rattles. All of them are a sign of one thing - something isn't working correctly. Engineers don't design products to make noises they're not supposed to.

But chasing down a squawk or a ping can be tough. Bicycles are interconnected systems. A noise you think is emanating from one place could be someplace completely different. It's sort of like a water leak in your house. Where you see the puddle could be a LONG way from the source.

I've been wrestling one on my road bike for a little while. Like many, it started quietly and infrequently. And then grew louder. And louder. And louder. Kinda' like in Edgar Allan Poe's "Telltale Heart". OK, maybe it wasn't that loud. But in my head it was.

This one's from the drivetrain side, somewhere in the lower regions. After decades of listening to bikes, I can usually pretty quickly discern what type of issue I have. Carbon sounds different from aluminum. Aluminum sounds different from stainless steel. And so on. My creak is carbon-related. It's just got that pitch and cadence.

Carbon creaks are generally not good. Especially when you ride a carbon frame, like my Giant Defy Advanced Composite. But sometimes they're a minor issue - like a seatpost that needs a cleaning and a little carbon paste. Other times, they're an indicator of an impending failure. I've learned from fly rods that all it takes is minor weakening of structural integrity and chaos ensues.

But this one is weird. I know it's in the lower end, on the drivetrain side. It only happens when I come out of the saddle and hammer on the pedals. And it's very clearly only on one side. Oddly, somehow it feels outboard of the bottom bracket and it doesn't seem to travel up the frame.

Ah-HA! Cleats.

Cleats on cycling shoes are a lifelong pain in the ass. In the olden days, I remember nailing the cleats onto my Sidi shoes. Yep, you read that right - NAILING. Modern clipless systems have moved things forward tremendously, but still the cleat-shoe interface remains a trouble spot. This area takes a lot of stress, forces in all directions, and more. Three bolts (typically) connect the power of your legs to the bike's drivetrain. And, my Bont A-Three's have carbon soles. So, I re-tighten my bolts. Creak is still there.

Dammit!

On returning home from my first weeknight ride on Monday, I decided to investigate as the continued creak now has me thinking my frame is self-destructing. I also see plagues and locusts on the horizon.

One trick I've learned with cleats is the power of blue Loctite. If you don't keep some of this around the house, buy some. Today. Keeps problematic things with threads where they're supposed to be. So I figure time to tear down the right shoe and re-do the Loctite. First screw comes out easy, drop or two of thread sealant, re-torque and good to go. But the second one loosens, but then won't come free. Finally with some upward pressure from a screwdriver while twisting the Allen wrench it pops out. But wait - where's the threaded insert? I don't see it anymore.

Crap. Bonts are made in Australia. And while they make great shoes, they're in Australia. Just shipping something back to them takes weeks and costs at least $25. They're starting to get some US dealers, but I didn't buy mine from a dealer, so they'd have to go back to the Land Down Under. Then I notice something rolling around in the shoe. It's a regular old T-nut. And it's just popped out of the hole. After closer inspection the "teeth" that bite into the sole seem squashed.

Later that night, I find the Bont sells replacements for these (via Colorado Cyclist). Hmmmmm. This tells me this is not an isolated problem. So, I have some extras on order.

In the meantime, I have a backup pair. I'll be riding those tonight to see if my creak is still there or not. A report will follow.

-Sean-

Opening Day!

I've grown to love Opening Day of Detroit Tigers baseball in the past few years - probably Detroit's best party! Now I've got another opener to embrace; the smallmouth bass season in Michigan! The last Saturday in April will now be one for the calendar.

With a drift boat, a lot of potential water opens up for me. Weeks ago buddy Andrew and I hatched a plan to fish the opener, and his friend Brad joined us. Andrew's rowed for me before and Brand was game to give it a shot. All the work I put into the boat last year really paid off with minimal prep required to roll out to the Huron River. Hitch up the trailer, tie down the boat and GO!

Mike Schultz' S4 Sculpin fly pattern has become a proven performer for early season smallies (and trout all year), so I'd tied up a half dozen just for this trip in a few color combinations. This was one of the flies I made a real effort to master this off-season, and I think mine look pretty nice.

Our only real challenge of the day was access. We had to drag the boat about 50 yards across grass to a launch point. Drift boats are heavy. And they don't slide all that well! With a little huffing and puffing, we managed to splash down. A quick truck shuttle and we're ready to rock.

The upper portion of the float consisted mostly of me trying to remember how to row while Andrew and Brad worked on their rusty casting skills. Brad stuck one pretty early, but it popped off about as fast as it struck.

A bit later Andrew gets a hard hit. At first we're all thinking it's a dink - even the angler connected to the fish. But as it gets closer, we quickly realize this is a solid fish. Some quick net work and we're on the board with a nice fish that taped out at a shade over 16"! And with that, Andrew proves my S4's are getting  it done.

Now it's my turn to fish while Andrew rows. It takes a little while, casting into some nasty wind, but eventually my fly gets mugged. This is one of the things I've come to love about streamer fishing - especially for smallmouth - is the visual component. Seeing the chase, the strike, and the fight unfold is SO cool! And smallmouth hit flies like a truck; with little or no hesitation. Mine turns out to be about 14". Respectable, but nothing that scores me bragging rights.

This is my first day casting the Scott Radian 907/4. It's hard to judge a rod when you haven't thrown an overhead cast in 6 months and the winds blowing upriver at 15mph. But early impressions were very good. It's got good speed, and is incredibly light (especially with a Ross Evolution LT 4 reel mounted). It's not the rocket ship that the S4s's I've cast are, but it's plenty fast. And it's definitely got better rod feel. Since this is one of my main rods for April - September, I'm very happy with it. A more detailed review will be coming when I've got some more time in with it.

All in all, a might fine day on the water with excellent company! What a great way to welcome in the smallmouth bass season.

-Sean-

Eurotrash

In the years since I started downhill skiing seriously in High School, I've owned nearly every brand of ski around - K2, Rossignol, Olin (best ski ever from an explosives company), Kastle, Atomic, Fischer, Yamaha (yep, they made skis for a while, too), Line, and probably a few others I can't recall. I remember some great ones (the Olin 930s and Fischer RX9's immediately come to mind), some bad ones (the Atomics - can't recall the model but they flex about as much as a battleship), and some scary ones (K2 VO Slaloms).

Now I've ended up with two brands I've never owned, which is a bit surprising to me - Volkl and Blizzard. I've had the Volkl RTM 84's since late last season and written about them a few times here. Great all-around ski. Solid in all but the deepest powder, great on groomers, and even hold an edge well on ice. At 84mm underfoot, I'd call it a "mid". These are my first rockered skis, and the difference in turn initiation is definitely noticeable. In fact, on my first outing, I actually had to back off as I was overpowering them. My only real issue is the length - at 171cm - is a bit shorter than I think I'd like. At 6'0" and 205 pounds, I'd really like to be on the 176 or even the 181. But I scored a late season BARGAIN and that's all they had. I definitely give up some stability at higher speeds, though I do gain some maneuverability in tight spots.

I've really enjoyed the Volkls over the dozen or so days I've skied them. Which got me to thinking - maybe it's time to replace the fat boys (Line Prophet 100's) with a rockered ski. After all, the rocker trend started with powder boards. I already own a set of Marker bindings that could be readily swapped over. My last day skiing this year, I rode the chairlift with a guy on Blizzard Bonafide's. He'd just gotten them, but was really happy with his choice. On a recent visit to Sun and Snow Sports, I found out that owner Rob Parent is also skiing on these and loves them. I've really come to trust Rob's judgement, so this endorsement means a lot to me. After some dialogue, an end-of-season deal is struck and I'm buying a pair.

Next choice -- how long? Rob's still got most of the sizes in. I'm debating between the 180cm and 187cm. Most of the articles I found online suggest that a typical rockered board skis about 5-10cm shorter than it's traditional cambered equivalent. My Line's were 185cm. In general, I'd say that I liked that length overall, though I could have gone a touch shorter for better control in tighter quarters. Given those factors, I opted for the 187cm. I'm sure they'll be just fine in MI, as I tend to ski more fast, open runs here. Out West, I'm not much for trees, so I think they'll be solid. I don't ski a lot of tight spots out there and I think the added stability will be a benefit for skiing faster, and having more edge should help with mushy, tracked-out powder.

While I've owned a number of skis with European pedigrees, Volkl and Blizzard are two that really haven't been "Americanized" like Rossignol or Atomic. So, I guess I'm Eurotrash now! Time for a one-piece "fartbag" ski suit and a perpetually dangling cigarette.

BTW, the title of this post was intended in a fun, frivolous spirit - it was actually inspired by Cracker's "Eurotrash Girl". I'm just very entertained by the cultural differences when I head out West and encounter Germans and Swiss hiding out over here. Always been nice people and it's always an interesting chairlift ride!

Looking forward to unleashing these monsters next season!

-Sean-

Product Review: Bont A Three Cycling Shoe

With just under 70 miles in this weekend, I felt compelled to write about my ever-so-fabulous Bont A Three cycling shoes. Yes, they rock.

My friend Josh found Bont after noticing Bradley Wiggins wearing them in the tour. The idea of a heat-moldable cycling shoe immediately appealed to both of us. For me, I'd been having some issues with numbness in my toes on longer rides, as well as general discomfort. Plus, my cycling shoes were pretty entry level and I'd been considering an upgrade to something stiffer for a while.

Bont was originally known for speed skates (with heat-moldable boots, of course). They were smart enough to realize that many of the properties of a skate would translate directly to cycling footwear.

Unfortunately, most cycling shoes use the European sizing standards, and there's often a great deal of variance between brands. I've worn shoes from EU44 to EU47 that were comfortable - though I'm usually best in a 46. But Bont has a handy sizing chart. So I used that and placed my order, even though the size they recommended (44) seemed much too small.

Fail.

The first pair arrived - shipped on the slow boat from Australia. As soon as I slipped them on, I knew they wouldn't fit. So back they go, with an order for the correct size 46. In the meantime I score a barely used pair of 46's from eBay.

Lesson One: Buy from a local dealer. At the time I ordered mine, there wasn't one. Now there is. Next time, I'll know.

OK, so now I have a pair that seems like they're going to fit correctly. Per the instructions, I preheat the oven to 160 degrees and remove the insoles. Bake for 20 minutes at 160, pull 'em out, stick in the insoles and put 'em on. Then stand in one place as they mold to your foot and cool. The result? A full-custom fit that's positively awesome.

The next evening, I get them out on the road. Wow. Just wow! The improved fit is evident, but the real difference is in the stiffness. I had no idea how flimsy my previous shoes were! Every pedal stroke goes straight to moving you down the road. I gain a significant advantage on hills. Pure happiness.

A few weeks later, my replacements arrive from Bont. I do the heat molding process again. Here's where it gets interesting. The used eBay pair simply had three Velcro straps. The new ones are the replace the top strap with a buckle system and the difference is extremely noticeable. Much more rigid fit, and more comfortable as my foot stays in-place on the footbed.

Lesson Two: Buckle/strap models dramatically outperform just straps

Now I've got the better part of a year on my A-Three's and I couldn't be happier. They clearly deliver a fit and performance advantage I could never have imagined. Cooling airflow is also surprisingly good, considering the upper is all smooth leather. While these shoes are pricey (I got a deal - I bought mine as the improved A-Two was being introduced) they're comparable to other top-notch shoes like Sidi, Mavic, or Diadora. The difference is the heat moldable fit. None of these competitors deliver this at ANY price.

Highly recommended!

-Sean-

1911 - Phase II

While I've been very happy with my Kimber Custom Stainless II 1911 .45, the tweaker in me just can't resist. The 1911 platform affords so much opportunity for customization, that I knew this would happen before too long.

What initially fueled this was shooting my friend's Kimber TLE model. The checkering on the front strap really makes a huge difference. I'm more easily able to get a solid, consistent grip and as a result accuracy increases greatly.

These days it seems like finding a good gunsmith is a real challenge. Fortunately, I have a friend who shoots competitively and loves 1911's. He recommended I talk to Marianne Carniak - "The Accurizer". On Saturday, I paid Marianne a visit at her shop to have a look at my gun. This lady knows her 1911's! Super cool, incredibly knowledgeable, and really able to talk me through what I liked and didn't like about the gun. I knew at the outset that she'd be doing more than the checkering, I just didn't know what. With Marianne's guidance we were able to identify some modifications to make this MY gun. To say that I'm eager to have it back in my hands is a vast understatement.

Upon pulling the gun from its case, Marianne immediately identified a weakness -- the plastic mainspring housing. I'd never even noticed that this part was plastic! Though it's a non-critical functioning part, she said, "it just should be metal...". Music to my ears, I found the right resource.

I've not had a lot of luck with gunsmiths in the past, but I think that's because I was going to general, mass-market places. In the hands of specialist, I was really able to uncover areas for both significant and minor improvements that will customize this gun to me.

I'll write more after I get it back in a month or so!

Like Butter

First ride of the season yesterday. Damn I love this bike...

After a somewhat wobbly "how the hell do I ride this thing?" start of 100' or so, it was all good. This bike is everything I wanted when I upgraded to carbon. Smooth, fast, responsive, and so much more. Road feel is excellent, but it also does a nice job of soaking up mixed pavement qualities (something we seem to have even more of in SE Michigan after our run-in with the Polar Vortex).

The biggest benefit, in my mind, comes from being on a slightly larger frame. My old Giant OCR3 was a size M. This one's a M/L and slightly bigger. Having a little extra room to stretch out makes such a difference. My riding position is better and I can open up my chest a bit for better breathing.

The only down side? My ass hurt! Yup, need to work my way back into a solid butt-seat interface. I figure a few rides will take care of that though. The Fizik saddle isn't the issue. My sissified arse is.

Did about 24 miles with 3 friends. While I wasn't setting any records, I put in a solid 15.4 mph average and finished feeling strong. Given that this is my first outing since October and I really didn't put in any meaningful off-season conditioning, I feel very good about this. Plus, I was out far earlier than last year. My cycling season is off to a solid start!

-Sean-