Showing posts with label upper peninsula. Show all posts
Showing posts with label upper peninsula. Show all posts

03 October, 2014

Muskies Still Suck

"Muskies still suck" - the best quote about fly fishing for muskie I've yet heard. But somehow, they get inside our heads. For freshwater fly guy, this is the Alpha Predator. The Big Kahuna. So much so that even the guys in the fly shops we visited in Montana all said, "Man, you've got some awesome 'skis out there. I'd LOVE to come do that!"

But yet, Muskies still suck. They're an aggressive, but fickle predator. They lie in wait, ready to pounce, but don't. They follow to the boat - and even through a figure eight - and still don't hit. But yeah buddy when they do... wow!

So, on this year's muskie fly date with Capt. Jon Ray, it was my time for revenge. I missed three last year, but I've now come to learn that at least I got three shots. Despite brutal conditions of 15-20mph winds with gusts over 30 and nowhere to hide, I got one.

Cute little guy, ain't he? My first boated muskie on the fly!
Wasn't a big one, but I hooked, fought, and landed a legit muskie on the fly. And I'm damn proud of it. I saw the boil, then the follow, and the strike. A vicious predator. Absolutely mugged the fly with no apologies.

Of course, there's the one that got away. About an hour earlier I had a much larger one all the way to the boat. We watched it roll, then follow, and finally WHAM! Game on! At one point, I had a Scott Tidal 9010/4 rod bent IN HALF with an angry muskie on the other end. This was my first experience with this rod and it definitely has some backbone. In addition to making a day casting a soggy Muppet on a 350 grain Scientific Anglers Coastal Express line all day a relatively easy task, it was definitely up to the power of an adult muskie. 

Earlier in the day I missed another that was on briefly. Dad stuck three, with two solid fights, but none boated. Though he made up for it later in the week with a nice one boated.

While I don't think I'm going to become a full-on muskie convert, I do believe that at least one muskie trip a year is in my future. Hunting with a fly rod!

-Sean-

19 September, 2014

Grudge Match

This Summer my Dad got to resolve his grudge match with the Atlantic Salmon. Over the weekend, I'll be rolling up to the Upper Peninsula to settle the score with Esox Masquinongy, or Mr. Muskie to us regular non-Latin-speaking folks. We'll be spending the day in the capable hands of guide and friend Jon Ray of Hawkins Outfitters. JR's been putting in the hours on UP waters building a solid muskie program. Plus, I just enjoy a day in the boat with him. I always learn something new and it's just fun.

Last year, Dad got his -- just under 40" -- right near the end of our day. While I got a few pike, and had three muskie on, none were boated.

Solid first muskie on the fly!

But those muskie got in my head. I know a bunch of muskie fly guys and it's definitely a mental game. These things are the Unicorn of the Water. I think it's the strike that got me. Unlike steelhead who don't often hit really hard initially, muskie absolutely blow up a fly when properly motivated. It's just cool.

On an equipment front (hey, I can't overlook the gear...), I'm intrigued as I know Jon's got at least one of the new Scott Tidal's aboard. I've test cast a 907 and I have to say I rather liked it. Especially at the price point. It will be interesting to actually fish this new rod. I've got in a fair number of hours on my Scott Radian (of course with MUCH smaller flies in a lighter weight).

I realize so much of it is luck, weather, water conditions, and so on - but this year I do at least feel better prepared. Over the past year I've put some effort into my casting stroke to get more power and distance with less effort. I'm getting better at solid, consistent hooksets (I think poor hooksets were a part of my problem last year).

So, I've stepped up my game. Let's see if the Fish Gods smile upon me.

-Sean-

20 August, 2014

Product Review: Bozeman Reels SC 223 Click-Pawl Fly Reel

I've already admitted to a serious addiction to clickers. This all started with steelhead - actually with doing a little Winter centerpinning (don't judge - I only do it on big water and in certain situations where conventional float fishing is a pain in the ass; plus I run a full fly rig). There's something primal about the sound of these reels, and about the direct connection to the fish that truly captures my soul.

Montana guide and friend Joe Willauer (check out Joe's Evolution Anglers blog - a great read) turned me on to Bozeman Reel Company. I'm all about American-made gear and if it can come from the heart of fly fishing so much the better. But what, is that an uber classic clicker in their SC Series reel? Gotta' have it.

Of course BRC didn't have any local or online dealers at the time as Dan Rice and his crew were just getting it launched. So, I got to have some nice dialogue with Dan. Super cool guy with a solid business background. After ordering the SC 325 (that's three-to-five, in case you missed the nomenclature like I did at first) and then later realizing that size was foolish, I ended up with an SC 223.

I wrote a preliminary review on the 325 a while back, but to be honest due to my own stupidity it never even got test cast. This year when I realized that I had some Summer trips to Michigan's Upper Peninsula planned and that I'd get to fish with my Dad, who's an ardent small water enthusiast, it was time for a Small Water Rig (SWR). For a while, I'd been thinking that a 2- or 3-weight would be cool for an outing on some skinny water. I've done this before with my 8'6" 4-weight Scott A3. Too much stick to be fun. So an appropriate 3-weight rod was acquired (review coming soon) and a well-matched line (yet another review...).

But I digress - back the the SC 223. As you may recall, I had a very favorable first impression of the SC 325 in my earlier write-up. Classic lines, solidly built, and some truly impactful packaging. These guys got this one right.

Bozeman Reel Company SC 223
Bozeman Reel SC 223 reel where it needs to be - back in the woods!
Immediately upon getting my hands on the 223 model, it just had something truly magical. It's like the crew at BRC managed to concentrate all the goodness of the larger 325 into a smaller package. The 223 isn't heavy at all, rather, it's maybe more solid. I'm seldom at a loss for words, but this one's magic and I can't quite get to the essence. Check one out in person and you'll see what I mean.

The other cool thing about this reel is that it doesn't need to be switched from left- to right-hand retrieve. Somehow it just magically figures it out and adjusts. I'm no mechanical engineer, so I decided that BRC employs liberal doses of pixie dust and magic in all their reels. I was, however, curious about the reels inner workings. But it's so well put-together I just felt like I shouldn't take it apart. So, I asked Dan, and here's what I learned:

"Those attachment points are hidden to keep the appearance clean.  The spool is then coupled with two stainless spool inserts that when working together create the shaft that the spool rides upon.  Those are inserted into a set of tightly toleranced brass bushings that create the smooth movement of the reel."

Wow. That's Olde Schoole craftsmanship. It's very clear that a lot of thought went into the design of this sweet little reel. I'd asked about the reason for no clicker tension adjustment and learned that the group of purists had helped with input for this reel. These folk strongly advocated for a traditional design along the line of Edward vom Hofe. In a trout reel, I'm down with this. It's so seldom you'd actually even go to the reel, and on a 3-weight rig it's even less likely.

OK, so all this troutsturbation is interesting, what's it like on the river? How about one word? Perfect. The weight is just right. The purr of the clicker is just right. And the classic lines are just right. In short, when you wade into a small cold stream in search of tiny, beautiful brook trout, this feels like what should be in your hand.

Fox River in Michigan's Upper Peninsula - Hemingway
Bugs were kinda' thick on that first outing...
My first outing with the SWR was in the Fox River in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. I've previously written about this unique piece of water. Suffice it to say, it felt like being on that river, on that day, with the SC 223 I could have been out with Hemingway himself and not felt out of place.

The balance is an interesting issue. It's as though this real cold somehow sense what rod it was on and adjust density. my 3-weight is a fiberglass model

A second outing on the Fox a few weeks later brought similar joy - and some nice brookies. This second outing gave me the same reaction as the first; balance, poise, and style. I can already tell this reel will be a favorite. While it may not get a lot of use each year, as I'm some distance from the places where it excels, it will be used a lot for a number of years!

Love clicker reels? Want American-made? Appreciate fine craftsmanship? Check out Bozeman Reel Company's SC Series 223 reel. Two thumbs up!

-Sean-

29 July, 2014

UP Power Weekend Day Two: In Papa's Footsteps

In the outdoors, Hemingway is truly a larger-than-life character. This is especially true in the Central Upper Peninsula of Michigan, where his "Nick Adams Stories" left a lasting footprint. These tales are all set on the Big Two Hearted River, which always mystified me. As the story begins, our hero jumps off the train in Seney, and hikes a relatively short distance to the Big Two Hearted. Anyone who knows anything about UP geography knows that would be a damn long hike! Sure enough in recent years it became more common knowledge that Hemingway didn't actually fish the Two Hearted, but preferred the smaller (and much closer to Seney) Fox River.

As a marketer, I can definitely see the appeal of the Big Two Hearted having a better name. But others have argued that perhaps he was simply a cunning angler who wanted to protect his secret spot. Add to this the Fox's reputation for some big brook trout, and  you've got a "bucket list" destination.

The Fox has been on the radar for my Dad and I for some time. The problem is it's not the easiest to access. The banks are thick with tag alders and other nasty vegetation. The holes are DEEP and large. Add to this a lot of downed timber and you have a tough river. We've looked at it for years, but neither of us has ever fished it.

This trip, we were determined to fix that. Or at least do some serious scouting. And we needed to make our way from Manistique over to the Soo by Sunday night. From previous looks, we've both seen that there are numerous access points along the river road north of Seney. But neither of us had done more serious exploration (or even gotten our feet wet). So, we dropped Dad's Focus off in Seney, in favor of the more robust Wrangler - which turned out to be a good idea given some of the roads we hit.

Basically we drove up the River Road, ducking in at each spur trail to check out access. First stop - nope; brushy, deep, no way into the river safely. Second - same. Third - mmmm, maybe. Fourth - uh-uh; no thank you. About this time I'm thinking this will be more recon than fishing.

At stop number Five, this changed.

The Fabulous Fox
A quick look over the edge revealed a beautiful sugar sand bottom. With perfect UP tannin-hued water. Brook trout Heaven! On closer inspection I found some good access points and what looked like wadeable water both up- and downstream. Decision made. I'm IN! Wader up. Cover every possible square inch of exposed skin (UP backwoods bugs are BRUTAL). And string up my rig with a tasty looking beetle.

There's a future review coming on the new Small Water Rig (or SWR, if you prefer). But suffice it to say, I'm pretty excited to have it's debut be on Hemingway's water.

As soon as I slide into the water (literally - the access point I chose took a leap-of-faith slide down the bank the last 4' or so), I know this is going to be great water. Even through waders on a hot day, that water is COLD. And cold Summer water means happy trout.

This little river is just perfect. If I were a trout, I'd live here. Banks lined with dense vegetation. Crystal clear water. Lots of nice cover in the form of overhanging cedars and downed timber.

After only a moment, I've got a rise. No commitment, but these are brookies. And brookies are more aggressive than smart. You miss a brown on a dry, you blew it. But with a brookie, just give 'em another shot. Sure enough, I've got my first fish on in a matter of moments after getting my boots wet. SWEET!

For a 5" brook trout, I did a lot of hollering. This got Dad's attention (he'd decided to let me check it out before he committed) and sent him scurrying to wader up. While he was, I scored another larger brookie - maybe 7" or so. Nice!

Dad doing his best Hemingway
Once Dad joins me, I send him up to the spot that had been working for me, while I headed downriver. Within moments, I hear the sounds of success as Dad finds fish as well.

At this point, I have to say how much I was enjoying the day. And friend know I've long given my Dad a hard time for his love of UP backwoods bushwacking. The new SWR definitely does make a difference. A day on a river like the Fox with a 9' will be a frustrating day. But with a 7' 3-weight it's just about as good as it gets.

This was the more "open" water...

We spend a couple more hours exploring up and downstream. Finding rises and a few more commitments. Extracting flies from overhanging trees, and generally having a good time. As the afternoon sun begins to sink, we grudgingly admit it's time to cover the miles to our destination for the evening at the Soo.

A truly special day that I got to share with my Dad - and Ernest. Definitely a location I will return to. It's marked in my GPS as simply "Fox - Hemingway 1".

Day Two in da Yoop, also a success!

-Sean-

28 July, 2014

Up Power Weekend: Day One

Saturday was decided to be Escanaba Day by Dad and I. The Esky is a river I really enjoy, though I've only fished it a few times. The settings are pretty, and the fish are usually plentiful. Probably doesn't hurt that my first day fishing it I got fish on dries, nymphs, and streamers all within one day.

But first, we needed some detours (hey, you don't want to be out there TOO early). I'm a big fan of Rapid River Knife Works. Handmade, by Michigan craftsmen. I've had one of their Skinner Series knives for a few years and been extremely pleased with it. Recently I noticed some new knives on their web site, so I thought a repeat visit was in order. After making the poor kid behind the count pull out about 87 knives, I settled on a nice elk antler-sided folder (oddly, not pictured on their web site). Like my other knife, excellent quality at a very fair price!

Marble's Outlet, a few miles down the road, is the UP's newest fly shop. Dad had met the owner on the river one day, so we paid him a visit. Owner Jim couldn't have been any nicer. Great guy to chat with. Gave us some solid river intel and showed us around the place. If you're in the area and need some gear, a great place to stop. For a new shop, he had a nice selection of inventory, especially tying materials.

Next we made a stop along the river to check out a smallmouth spot Jim had recommended. Looks solid. Perhaps I'll get back there, though if I'm in the UP, I'm generally more interested in coldwater species.

By now, it's mid-afternoon. Time for a late lunch and perhaps a beer or two. Since we're in the "big city" of Escanaba, that means Hereford & Hops. Food is serviceable, while the beer is actually pretty good. Thirst quenched and belly filled, we're off to the river. Jim's given us some pointers on a stretch we've fished before that's been producing lately.

Now the dilemma - what to fish. On a stretch that I know, I'm partial to taking two rods - one with a dry or nymph rig, and the other a streamer. Streamer is easy - Scott Radian 907/4, Ross Evolution LT III with Rio Outbound Short line. Boom. Done. I really WANT to fish my fancy Scott G2 5-weight. But the wind is blowing hard and picking up velocity. I'm thinking I need the 6-weight advantage to cut the wind. So it's the Scott A4 906/4, Abel Creek Series AC2 standard arbor reel, and Scientific Anglers GPX line for dry flies.

I love my Abel clicker reels AC2 Creek Series shown here.

Now for the disappointment - can't tell you where we were. Yeah, if you know the area, you can probably guess. But if you don't, you're not finding it from my blog. Sorry, but I make it a policy never to reveal spots a guide's taken me to. The best guides spend a ton of time developing their list of spots so they have good water for their clients. I feel very fortunate that a few have been generous enough to share them with me. But I won't post 'em up on the Interwebs. Figure it out yourself, or better still book a day with a guide. In the UP, that's simple - Brad Petzke of Rivers North is THE MAN in da Yoop!

After a short walk, we find the areas Jim had shared with us and set up. Dad's downstream running an stimulator, with a bead-head nymph below. I find some likely looking water and start in with the a similar rig with slightly different flies. Fairly quickly I'm hooked up. And just as quickly, I'm off. After fishing a bit more, I dredge the streamer through the run. Zero. Zip. Nada. Zilch.

Now I'm starting to get puzzled. I realize that  we basically walked up, waded in and went to work. And we're trout fishing. Mr. Trout is now in my head. Am I really in the right spot? What am I throwing and why? Time to sit a spell and have a look at the river.

Glancing upstream I notice a riffle with a nice tail-out. Hmmmm. Time for a walk. After wading out, I start running the hopper-dropper with the stimulator and a pheasant tail nymph below. I grid the water out in my mind and start to work it. It's not long before I have a few refusals. OK, Mr. Trout, now you're WAY up in my head. Good friend and primo guide Jon Ray taught me a simple lesson - trout don't miss. If a trout rose and didn't take your fly, that means there was something they didn't like about it. But, they are looking at my flies. So I'm in the right ballpark. Time for a trip back to the bank and a sit (and maybe a sip of the bourbon in my flask...). I notice some smallish white flies fluttering by occasionally. Ah-HA! the #12 Ephorons that Jim sold us! Re-rig and back out I go. Before long, I've got a mid-teens brown to-hand. I don't get to do it enough, so I do really love getting a trout on a dry fly. A bit later I hit another one. I've noticed that smaller trout seem to show themselves at the surface more readily after you hook them. This one does not. Heads straight for the bottom. Unfortunately, this one breaks me off. Bummer.

On the drive back to the cottage we encounter a MAMMOTH  hatch of bugs. The windshield sounds like it's raining. Wow - had a great day, but sorry to have missed that. A damn fine day in Michigan's Upper Peninsula.

-Sean-


25 July, 2014

The Upper Hand

While I get a lot of traffic on this blog from Michigan, I also get a ton from locations around the world. So, first a little explanation of Michigan geography.

If you know anyone from Michigan you'll know that we're a unique state. You can basically show someone a "map" of the state with both hands. The Lower Peninsula is shaped like a mitten. By tipping the other hand on its side, you've got the Upper Peninsula. The Mackinac Bridge connects to the two, bridging the Straits of Machinac where Lakes Michigan and Huron meet.

The two Peninsulas couldn't be more different. Back in the 70's, the Upper Peninsula (or UP as it's more commonly known) even tried to form it's own State. Unfortunately, they overlooked one minor issue - all the money, and all the population (i.e. tax base) is in the Lower. Oops. "Yoopers" are the from the UP, while "Trolls" (as Yoopers refer to them) live below the bridge. I am proud to be a Yooper by birth. But, I left shortly thereafter. My family has had a place in da Yoop since the early 90's, on Lake Michigan just outside Manistique.

Last weekend I took advantage of a day booked over a year ago to chase Atlantic Salmon with guide Brad Petzke of Riversnorth Outfitters to expand into a full-on Yooper Fishing Fest with my Dad. Over the course of three days, we covered a lot of backroads, a lot of water, and caught a wide range of fish using a wide range of techniques.

If this feels a bit like a movie trailer - it is. Look for a broad range of upcoming posts on our antics.I'll be mixing in some gear reviews as well - this was a first outing for a whole new fly fishing rig set-up just for small UP streams.

Stay tuned.

-Sean-

09 July, 2014

Speak Softly and Carry a Small Stick

4" brook trout everywhere will be quaking in the riverbed with my new small stream rig.

Like many of my outdoor gear projects, this one started on a silly whim. I had this magnificent reel - a Bozeman Reels SC - that was basically sitting unused. I purchased a 325 size, with the misguided idea that I'd use it on my Scott G2 905/4. Not sure what I was thinking - since that rod already has an excellent Abel Classic reel on it. Plus, I live in SE Michigan and gas is nearly $4 a gallon. How much dry fly trout fishing can I do?

Then I got to thinking. With a family place in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, I have access to some nice small water spots. And my Dad just LOVES fishing this backwoods stuff. I've also got a few spots in the Lower Peninsula that I like. Maybe it's time for a cool shorter 3 weight?

As I'm starting to ponder the possibilities, I notice on the Bozeman web site that the SC is now available in a smaller 223 (2-3 weight) size. Hmmmm. A quick e-mail with them and we work out an exchange (my 325 was never even cast). Very soon an SC Series 223 is in my hands. And what a perfect little reel it is. All the goodness of the SC325, just in a smaller package.

Now for a rod. Already own a Scott A3 856/4. Nice stick, but I want something lighter and shorter. Need to be able to handle it back in the bush and want something that makes a 6" brookie feel like a steelhead. My Dad had cast the Hardy 'glass rods and liked them. I see that Echo has a new line of glass rods - they've always had good value for the price. But glass (often) is SLLLOOOOWWWWW. And I suck at slowing down my casts.

And then I found it. The new Orvis Superfine Glass in a 7' 3-weight configuration. Soul from fiberglass, speed from graphite. Perfect! The more I read a few online reviews, the more excited I am about this stick. Everyone calls it "shockingly fast" but remarks it has the feel glass is known for. Sign me up. A quick test cast, and one is procured.

Line is easy - when you have a top-notch shop like Schultz Outfitters handy. With all the new market introductions, keeping up with fly lines is a full-time job. I find that line knowledge is a really valid way to assess a good shop. Bonus points if they're clued in on spey lines. My selection is a Rio Perception. Great all around presentation line for trout fishing.


A very competent rig. But sometimes the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. That's the case here. This rod and reel look and feel like they were made for each other. The classic looks of both blend beautifully. And the reel weight and size are just right to balance the rod. From the instant I slip the reel into the seat, it's all good. Everything is in holistic harmony. Yeah, seriously, it's that good.

I'll be headed to the UP in a couple of weeks. Dad and I have an Atlantic Salmon date booked with Brad Petzke of Riversnorth. But before that I'm sure we'll put in some time on the small water. I'm sure I'll have much more to write after that. Can't wait!

-Sean-

14 July, 2009

Hangin' with Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway has long been one of my favorite writers. While he was known for several haunts, including Key West, Charlevoix, and Spain, the Big Two Hearted River (east of Grand Marais, MI in the Upper Peninsula) was a frequent location in his Nick Adams stories.

I kayaked the Two Hearted a few years back and found it to be a beautiful, unspoiled river. In five hours of paddling, I never saw a single house. Nor a lawn (try that on the AuSable). So, when the opportunity to fish and camp along the river appeared, I jumped on it. With kayak, mountain bike, and fly rods I was ready.

The campground at the mouth was the perfect home base. I found a prime site - a 50 foot walk from the mouth and Lake Superior beyond (view at left). After setting up camp and checking things out, I struck out for the High Bridge access in the evening, thinking I'd fish that and work my way down the river to the Reed & Green Bridge access, then back to camp at dark.

Like many UP rivers, the Two Hearted is richly stained with tannins - like fishing in bourbon. Just makes it that much more beautiful.

At the High Bridge, I was happy to have my Yooper Stick -- a short (7' 6") 3-weight TFO rod. Tight quarters and this little rod was perfect for it. But, I was reminded of one challenge of UP rivers -- access. While you can usually get IN the river, heavy brush and trees can make getting OUT a problem. No luck at High Bridge, but a pretty wade.

Then it was on to Reed & Green. Wind was up and this part of the river is wider, so back to the trusty all-around Scott A-2 6-weight. I love this rod -- casts beautifully, super smooth delivery, and just seems to make me better. Two casts in and I've got a trout interested in the fly. On the fourth, he hits it. And, I've got my first fish of the trip. Nice little rainbow trout.

After I work my way around the bend, I find I'm out of the wind and a little hatch is starting and fish are feeding more. I'm really struck by the beauty of this place. The Two Hearted is truly a special river. As darkness is settling in, I hook a brook trout. Nice way to end the evening!

As an aside, many people don't know that Hemingway didn't fish the Two Hearted. He spent most of his UP time on the Fox river (at left) outside Seney. But the Two Hearted had a more powerful name (with "Big" added for more impact) and according to legend he wanted to protect his secret spot. My Dad and I have discussed fishing the Fox, but have decided it's probably unwadeable due to a lot of silt and deep holes. One day we'll drag the big old Grumman aluminum canoe up and give it a shot some day.

I'll definitely be back to the Two Hearted and if you like to be on the water to fish, canoe, or kayak, I highly recommend it!

-Sean-

05 June, 2009

Here Fishy, Fishy...

After yesterday's deep topic, I thought a few more photos from early May UP fishing trip could be fun! Starting at top left - Big Murphy Creek in western Schoolcraft County, fly rods in the toaster, fishing on Big Murphy Creek (turns out they were suckers...), me in the morning on Bear Lake, Black River just north of US 2 in western Mackinac County, and outside my favorite up north watering hole/dining spot. Enjoy!