Winter Wonderland

I love Winter. It seems so many of my favorite activities happen in this season. This weekend I'll be skiing on Sunday. Saturday's a toss-up between a fly tying symposium and the opportunity to get in on one of my buddy Nick's rabbit hunts. And, somehow I need to reschedule last week's steelhead trip with Jon Ray.

All a great reminder of the wealth of options the Winter affords. It's nice to love the outdoors; it keeps Winter from becoming that bleakest of all seasons. Instead it's a time I look forward to and one that's often far too short!

Whatever you're doing outside, enjoy!

-Sean-

Gear Geeks

I've got my sweet reels, but they're for steelhead. And, I've caught a number of trout over 16". But, we all know this guy. I try not to be him. Sometimes I fail...

Blam!

For a while I've been struggling with the shotgun situation. I need an all around gun that works for a wide range of uses - sporting clays, ducks, rabbits, maybe turkey, and perhaps some upland birds. I want something I can shoot frequently enough to get comfortable with how it mounts and performs so I'm a better, more consistent shot.

None of my current guns will shoot 3" and 3-1/2" shells, so waterfowl or turkeys are out. On the other end, I would imagine I'll shoot clays more than anything, so it needs to cycle reliably with 2-3/4" target loads.

After a lot of consideration and soul-searching, I've decided that one of the new generation of synthetic autoloaders will be the ticket. While I love the look and feel of a classic over-under, a decent one is just too pricey, plus then I have to baby it when hunting. The new autoloaders feature rugged durable stocks, plus proprietary coatings that protect from the elements. I love the feel of a classic Browning Citori or Beretta, but for the uses I want to put this gun to, it just doesn't make sense.

The solution looks to be the new Remington VersaMAX. What first caught my attention was the VersaPort system that adjusts the recoil gases to cycle shells from 2-3/4" to 3-1/2" reliably. All the reviews I've read have commended this system's reliability and simplicity. The TriNyte coated barrel means I can take it out on a drizzly day for ducks and not be concerned about it rusting in 3 minutes. And it's got simple shooter-adjustable pads for length-of-pull (important when you have long gorilla arms like me) and the cheek pad for proper mount.

This gun seems like the answer to a lot of my issues with my current shotguns. My Winchester 1200 pump is a great gun. But, it will only shoot lead, won't shoot over a 2-3/4" shell, and I'm not comfortable that I can put steel ammo through it for waterfowl. My Stoeger Uplander SxS is a GREAT upland field bird gun; but that's really all it's good for. And my vintage Remington 11-48 is a gun I just can't make peace with. My mount is inconsistent and I can't hit reliably, plus it's limited to 2-3/4" ammo, and won't shoot steel. The latter will likely be sold to find it a better home.

I feel like a grown-up outdoorsman. This will be my first new shotgun purchase and I'm getting what's right for me and how I will use it. The predecessors were good guns (well, except maybe the 11-48...), but they weren't what I needed.

-Sean-

Just in Case

Scored one of Simms relatively new Headwaters double rod/reel cases this weekend. Recently I've sort of rediscovered the rod/reel case as a solution to protect expensive gear, while keeping it ready for action. I wanted something to hold a couple of standard 9' 4-piece sticks. This would be ideal for a summer weekend on the AuSable or PM where I might want to bring a 4-wt. for dries and a 6-wt. for nymphing or terrestrials. Grab one case and go. And everything's safe and sound during transit.

I own several other rod/reel cases, but all are singles. The best of breed is my Sage Switch case. A wonderfully designed case, but it's very purpose-specific. Great for a longer, bulkier switch rod with a big reel like the Ross Momentum V. The worst is a generic Scientific Anglers case for 2-piece rods -- functional, but clearly not pretty.

Like most of Simms other products, this one's better designed. It starts with a unique Simms orange color. Orange is a weird color to get right -- too yellow and you look like a Sunny D ad, too red and it's quickly looking like rust. Simms just gets it right. The reel pouch is also well-executed. Rather than a simple oblong shape that sorta' fits most reels, this one has a triangular profile that looks sleek, and hugs the reel. I'd initially thought it would be only for smaller gear like my Ross CLA 3's. Surprisingly, it easily swallowed the aforementioned Momentum on an 8-weight. Bonus!

If you're looking to keep your gear from bouncing around the back of your buddy's truck getting scratched up and/or broken, the Simms Headwaters series of rod/reel cases seem to be a better solution.

-Sean-

Quiet Favorite

I've noticed another brand sneaking into my outdoor arsenal -- Mountain Hardwear. I've noticed that when I'm considering an addition of an item, that's become a go-to brand. It started with a fleece hat and gloves. Last year I added a SubZero for the really cold days. When it's seriously chilly, this is the only jacket I reach for. With one layer, I'm instantly warm below 10 degrees. This year I scored an Octans fleece on sale that's stylish, well-built, and surprisingly warm for its bulk. I've also got another of these mid-weight grid fleeces that's an older model.

All of the Mountain Hardwear gear I own is an excellent product. When you consider the very competitive pricing, it stands out even more. I'm sure as I add gear (like when I finally replace my The North Face sleeping bag that dates to Boy Scout days...) that Mountain Hardwear will be on the list.

As a marketer, I'm also a fan of the brand. It starts with an excellent and distinctive logo. The cool thing about this logo is its modularity. The threaded nut on the right become a tremendous icon (as good as the Nike Swoosh, in my opinion) on smaller goods, or as an accent on a cuff or shoulder sleeve.

The Mountain Hardwear website's as good ad the rest of the brand. Easy to use, can show as much or as little detail as you need.

As an outdoorsman, I respect consistently excellent products. As a marketer, I respect a brand that's equal to its excellent products. Well done!

-Sean-

I Don't Get It

"...the right to keep and bear arms"

I checked, that's how it's written in the Second Ammendment. It doesn't say, "...the right to keep and bear arms without any records.". So I completely don't get the NRA's vehement opposition to a national registry. If you are a safe and responsible gun owner, as the NRA claims as part of its mission, then a registered legal firearm would seem to be desirable.

Recent events in Tuscon and the Florida School Board shootings provide interesting fodder for this debate. Two individuals with clear mental health issues were allowed to possess firearms. Why? Perhaps because there's no way to keep track. Loughner clearly had issues, know by officials of the community college he was expelled from. Why didn't this trigger checks into his firearms ownership?

Owning a gun is a right in this country, but it's also a responsibility. And if you're not in a mental state to handle your end of the responsibility, I believe you should forfeit the right until you are. Note that I didn't say lose it forever. That's an important distinction.

I have a love-hate relationship with the NRA. It's the only force to protect us from the narrow-minded anti-gun lobby who thinks all firearms have some innate evil and should be taken from us ALL. But, the NRA seems to be the defenders of the lunatic fringe at times. I suppose this is the current state of politics - no one seems to occupy the center. All parties seem polarized at one extreme or the other, hence the gridlock we find ourselves in.

I doubt any of this changes any time soon. But it does make you wonder. What if one group conceded something like this? Would it cause the other side to stand down, even just a little?

-Sean-

Getting Started - Gear Up

At this point, you've been out with a buddy a time or two, done one or two days with a guide, and you've got the itch. Yes, NOW it's time to invest a bit. Unless you're laser focused on what you want to do, this post can help you save a ton of money.

Rod/Reel
Fly gear manufacturers want to get new people into the market. As such, there's been a flood of good entry-level rods and reels, including some complete packages, hitting the market. Many are surprisingly good. I started with the Ross Worldwide Essence series. For a couple hundred bucks you get a nice rod, decent reel for trout or smallmouth, and it's all set up with backing, a line, and even a leader. I still own this rod and use it to pitch streamers on a 200 grain sink tip and as a back-up and buddy rod (remember that part about teaching new folks?). LL Bean's Streamlight series look mighty nice, at a similar price point.

If you're looking for an all-around rod for trout, smallmouth that's also acceptable for panfish, I'd start with a 5/6 weight. If you truly think you're commited to the more aggressive freshwater species like steelhead or salmon, you're a special case and we'll deal with you later. Get ready to spend a bunch more money.

Waders/Boots
Your first key decision will be bootfoot waders versus stockingfoot with separate boots. While the latter is more expensive and slower to put on, I would recommend them strongly. You'll have more support, which is important as you're learning to wade, and they'll be more comfortable to wear all day.

I love my Simms G3 waders and Rivershed boots. Durable, comfortable, and everything's done right. But, that cash adds up fast. For a beginner, I'm going to suggest an alternative -- go cheap. I have a pair of FrogTogs waders that I picked up for a back-up when I had issues with some Orvis waders that had to be sent back. Sure, cheap waders won't fit as well, or be as breathable, but if you're starting out and not expecting long hikes or brutal conditions, they're fine. Buy what you find on sale. Don't pay over a hundred bucks. If you're going to splurge, do it on your boots, then you can keep those when you make the move to Simms, Patagonia, Cloudveil, Redington or some better wader. I've always had good luck with Simms boots, so I tend to recommend those and you can score a nice boot for $125-175.

The Other Stuff
You'll need a few basics to get out on the water:

• Flies - hit the local fly shop, ask them to suggest a starter selection of dries and nymphs. 3-5 patterns of dries and a couple of nymphs (I use pheasant tails and hare's ears a lot) should do you.
• Leaders - buy a 3-pack of 4X or 6X leaders in 9'. I use cheap ones from Cabelas - $8 for a 3-pack for most of my trout/smallie fishing. You'll acquire more lengths, weights and other configurations after you figure out what you're doing.
• Snips - cheap snips will only frustrate you with poor cuts and ragged edges. Splurge here and spend $10-20 on a decent snip. I like the Fishpond Pitchfork myself. Stay out of the bin of $3 Chinese specials up on the front counter.
• Hemostat - the easy way to unhook a fish. Again, this isn't a good place to save money. I use primarily Dr. Slick tools and I've never had an issue.
• Tippet - unless you want to go through a bazillion $$$ in pre-made leader, buy some tippet. I just match my primary leader weight, or splurge and pick up 4x and 6x. I'm a fan of the Rio products.
• Fly Box - you need something to hold all those flies. I bought cheap ones and later regretted it. My standard is now the Scientific Anglers System X boxes. Cliff Outdoors makes some sweet boxes, too and all made in the USA. Plan on spending $20-30 for a decent box.

Stuff You Don't Need (Yet)
There are a vast range of other items you might think you'll need that I'd suggest you hold off on for a variety of reasons.

• Net - when starting I lugged around nets of various sizes. They were clumsy and usually in the way. The vast majority of the fish you'll catch initially won't be anything huge and can be easily handled without a net. It's just one more thing to manage. Maybe later you'll want one when you start chasing the big fish, but I still don't carry one.
• Vest - the fly vest may have become a cliche. There are a wide range of solid alternatives with lanyards, chest packs, waist packs, sling bags, and other options. I've been at this a while and I still haven't settled on what to use. If you tie up $150 in a vest now, you may regret it later. if you really can't manage the stuff above, pick up a lanyard for $25 to get started.
• Wading Staff - the cheap ones are inferior and the good ones are expensive. Plus, I think they enable false confidence. At least for a while, if you feel totally uncomfortable, you don't belong there. Get out and walk around the hole.

There you have it, a reasonable start for a few hundred bucks. With this, you'll be ready to chase trout, smallmouth, and many other species in a wide range of rivers. As I said earlier, if you want to chase salmon or steelhead, you're signing up for a whole different program with more expensive reels, stiffer rods, and some more complex decisions to make.

-Sean-